Dakshinkali & Pharping

Religious, Cultural, environmental place and Maha Tapo-bhumi for Spritual practioners.

Located at 16 Km south of Kathmandu, linked with narrow and mountainous but black topped road where famous temples Shesh Narayan, Vajrayogini, and Dakshinkali are there.
A few hundred metres beyond Shesh Narayan, PHARPING is unexpectedly large and lively for this distant corner of the valley. It's divided between an unattractive modern commercial strip along the road and the more villagey original centre, reached by a side road where the main road swerves left. Nepal's first hydroelectric plant was built Sokhel just downhill from Pharping, in 1911, but the power generated all went to light Singha Durbar only ignoring locals in kerosene Tuki.

Phurping town is the Combination of 7 historical streets (Toles) named as;
1. Kotal tole, Gopaleswor community
2. Kochhu tole (Jhamkeswori ancient Durbari Area : Haa Lachhi square), Balkumari community.  

3. Tipi tole, also called Maiko tole, Dakshinkali community
4. Thalkhu tole, also called Thado dhunga, Neel Barahi community
5. Yalkhu tole, also called Haatisar , Indrayani community
6. Tharpu tole, also called Naran Dabli, Shesh Narayan community
7. Korpu tole, Mahalaxmi community

Each tole has well constructed Stone sprout, a Stage (Dabali) for the presentation and Show purpose and open chatting place or Dharmasala (pati). In the late evenings most of Patis are full of traditional Musical Programs ( Bhajans).

On the southern base of Dhinacho (Champadevi hill) where Shikhi Buddha meditated there to view Soyambhu when Kathmandu Valley was a big lake. Since Phurping is nestled on the lap of the hill-top, also called Shikharapur termed "Shikar" as top of the hill and "Pur" as town. Phurping is spreadout like ‘Fan’ (Cobra-breast like shape) so that it is called Fan-Pin-gu. In Newari it is called Phampi. Sometime during 1890 B S Phurping was housed of 60 thousand and Gopaleswor Shiva Temple was in the middle of city.

Gradually Stone sprout, Stage (Dabali) and Dharmasala (Paati) have been disappearing followed with the modern concrete constructions going on in Phurping.

Village tourism attractions
· Located 1500 meter above the sea level
· Nepal-India old trade route
· Famouse place for fruit - Pears and vegetables
· Non polluted and fresh air atmosphere, as such King Tribhuwan established “Paradise Garden” in BS 2008 presently the property is run by boarding school.
· Engraved in the stone at Jhanmkeshwori “B.S. 43 – King Amsuverma allotment of expenses for Buddha Bihar Puja (worship) which confirms this is an Ancient Buddhist Land. Also emphasizes that many places are named on the basis of Buddhist terms such as Baha, Bahi, Noni viz; Digu Bahal, Gol Bahal, Khaa – Baha, Haja noni, Gachhe Noni, Yon Tse, Matan Tse.
· According to the ancient chronology – Ishlamic Year 787 or 83 years before BS started, Phurping was well ruled by King Bhimarjun Dev and extended it properly.
· Sacred place where Naro-pa, Pharping-pa, Tilo-pa and Odiyani teachers meditated and did Tantric Yog Sadhana related to Bajrayogini temple.

Pharping has to offer number of short hikings to near by villages.

Chaukotdevi : A small shrine located at an altitude of 6300 ft. above sea level, 30 min walk from Humaney Bhanjyang - Tea stop while drive from Kathmandu to Hetauda, or 2 hrs hike from Dakshinkali temple.

Lamagaun and Dandikhel : : Small villages  dominated by Tamang and Lama and few of them are Chhetri and Newars. Could spend 5 to 6 hrs for hiking with spectacular view of Himalayan range from Chautara on the way to Dandikhel.

Champadevi and Hatiban: It is situated at an elevation of 2285m southwest of Kathmandu. Champadevi is a pilgrimage site having a Buddhist Stupa and a Hindu shrine.

Its surroundings:

1. North - Shesh Narayan Temple, Satikhel and Dallu village connets and enroute Kathmandu - Pharping road, 3 km/10 min drive from centre and on the hill top there is Haatiban Resort.

2. Northwest - Hoodu village also called Talku Dundechaur VDC 3 km/10 minutes drive

3. West - Talku, Kharpa, Dandikhel, Dathuban village - 6km/20 min drive from center.

4. Southwest - Lamagaun, Phulchowk Balami village - where located sacred goddess Manakamana Devi temple is popular place for local worship and attractive picnic spot for others, Humane Bhanjyang, and Chaukot Devi temple on hilltop.

5. South - Thasigaon Pine forest village, Bhatter chaur, Ramche from where Kathmandu - Hetauda alternative shortcut rough road continues.

6. Southeast - Youtiki, Simpani, Katuwal Daha from where entire water of Kathmandu valley drains to terai.

7. East - Gopaleswor Jungle, Kopugaon close by Bagmati river.

8. Northeast - Sokhel Bhanjyang, 100+ years old, Asias first Powerhouse, Nainkhandi village.

Major temples around Pharping are ;

1. Dakshinkali – medium to attain Tantra sacrificing animals, Jatra - Festival takes place on Shrawan Krishna Triyodashi. Dakshinkali is dedicated to one of the most important Hindu Goddess Kali and is one of the most popular places of worship in Kathmandu. Located 25 km from the city center on the southern rim of the Valley past Pharping village, the shrine is especially crowded on Tuesdays and Saturdays when animal sacrifices are offered to the deity.

2. ASURA CAVE where Gorakhnath or Padmasambhava meditated

The ASURA Cave is the spot where ACHARYA PADMA SAMBHAVA is said to have appointed the 12 TENMAS as the protectors of Tibet. Generally, it is believed that the great practitioners of India, Nepal and Tibet visited this site and turned the wheel of dharma. To the left and right side of the cave, there are some meditation cells founded by Tibetans later. Because GURU GORAKHNATH stayed here for sometime, many people call it GORAKHNATH. The hand impression on the right side of the external door and the footprints on the frontal face of the rock cave are known to be of Ascetic GORAKH. The local people call this sacred site GORAKHNATH GUFA.

 

3 .THE SELF EMERGED STATUE OF TARA (Saraswoti Temple)
Below the Asura Cave, on the side of a small rock there is a statue of Ganesh and a statue of the self emerged TARA – (Saraswoti Devi) which originated from the small rock cave itself. Both the Buddhist and Hindus come here to pray.







4. Vajrayogini –
medium to attain Tantra peacefully, Jatra – Festival of this goddess takes place based on lunar calendar on Ashwin Krishna Ekadashi. A fifteen-minute walk uphill brings you to the golden-roofed Pharping - Vajrayogini , one of the valley's four tantric temples dedicated to the angry female aspect of Buddhahood. Foreigners usually aren't allowed to enter, but the upstairs sanctum contains two prancing images of Bajra Jogini, each holding a skull-cup and knife.

A staircase just to the left of the Vajrayogini temple entrance leads further up the hill to a monastery sometimes used as a retreat by Buddhist Westerners. Introduce yourself and the monks will show you the Padma Sambhava Cave (also known as Asura Cave) in the courtyard; the irrepressible guru, whose image stands among butter candles, apparently meditated in this grotto as well as at Yanglesho. Buddhists say the handprint to the left of the cave entrance and the "footprints" in the centre of the courtyard are those of Padma Sambhava (Hindus claim they were left by Gorakhnath).

5. Panjal Ganesh – The temple located at Thalkhu tole (Tharo Dhunga) with big playground offers view of large paddy fields. The festival takes place on Kartik Purnima carrying on small sedan go throughout Phurping to accept puja and offerings.

6. Mahalaxmi sthan :  A small temple dedicated to tantrik devi Mahalaxmi - specially celebrated all the festivals by Balami community from Phurping, Phulchowk and Thasi gaon Chhaimale.  A famouse and wellknown tantrik dance of Astamatrika takes place only during night time starting from Kartik Purnima (November).  The theater lasts for about a week time venue at Maiko (Tipi) tole and Jhamkeswori (Kochhutole) the city centre.

Where to stay;

1) Dakshinkali Village Inn
Dakshinkali entrance gate
Phurping,  Nimtole.
Phone : 977-1-4710053

2) Hattiban Resort/Himalayan Height Resort
Champadevi Hill,
Sokhel, Bhanjyang,
Phone : 977-1-4710122/223/131/129

Sales Office : 4371-246

3) Dakshinkali Club Resort
Dallu, Phurping
Phone : 977-1-4710072

4) Ashoka Resort
New Road, Dakshinkali
Phone : 977-1-4710057/067

For more details please contact K B Balami, Kundalini Travel Nepal, Sundhara Kathmandu, Nepal, Tel : 4253128, 4254398 email : kundalinitrv@ntc.net.np

More information on Pharping......

This is a popular village amidst a lovely setting by the hillside. It is situated at the southwest corner of the Valley. Inhabited mostly by the Newars and Tamangs both of whom are Buddhists by faith, the village is dotted with numerous Mahayan (Lamaism) monasteries. Another important sight is the Buddhist temple of Bajra-Yogini pertaining to the authentic philosophy of Bajrayan.

A few hundred metres beyond Shesh Narayan, Pharping  is unexpectedly large and lively for this distant corner of the valley. It's divided between an unattractive modern commercial strip along the road, the more villagey Newari centre (reached by a side road where the main road swerves left), and a Tibetan Buddhist boom town which seems to throw up another fantastically gilded gompa every year. Nepal's first hydroelectric plant was built just downhill from Pharping, in 1911, but the power generated all went to light Singha Durbar.

A fifteen-minute walk uphill brings you to the Tibetan area, dominated by the huge white-and-gold stupa of Tharik Gompa, built in 1997 by followers of Tharik Rinpoche, a Sakyapa lama based in Boudha. Less grandiose but more significant is the golden-roofed Pharping Bajra Yogini, which sits above the newer monasteries and is one of the valley's four tantric temples dedicated to the angry female aspect of Buddhahood. Foreigners usually aren't allowed to enter, but the upstairs sanctum contains two prancing images of Bajra Yogini, each holding a skull-cup and knife.

A staircase just to the left of the Bajra Yogini temple entrance leads further up the hill to a monastery sometimes used as a retreat by Buddhist Westerners. Introduce yourself and the monks will show you the Padma Sambhava Cave (also known as Asura Cave) in the courtyard; the irrepressible guru, whose image stands among butter candles, apparently meditated in this grotto as well as at Yanglesho. Buddhists say the handprint to the left of the cave entrance and the "footprints" in the centre of the courtyard are those of Padma Sambhava (Hindus claim they were left by Gorakhnath). The site has grown to be a major pilgrimage stop for Tibetan Buddhists, and has spawned several other nearby gompa of Padma Sambhava's Nyingma-pa sect, all connected by strings of prayer flags that from a distance make the hillside look like it's covered in a gigantic spider web. Red-robed monks are a common sight around Pharping.

A couple of small restaurants, the Asura Cave and the Snowland, cater to the monasteries' residents and visitors. They're located just downhill from the Bajra Yogini temple, so if you find them you'll know you're on the right track for the temple and cave. The Asura Cave has basic rooms (less than Rs200).

Pharping is one of the few Buddhist power places of Nepal which is historically important as an ancient settlement. It is a Buddhist power place because it was the home of a Newar Buddhist scholar Vagisvarakirti and the seat of Padmasambhava, the founder of Lamaism, who meditated on one of the caves there. Pharping is a very frequented place because it lies on the way to Dakshinkali, the principal Tantric deity Kali. As Pharping is situated on the eastern, western and southern lap of a mountain called Dhyanocha, a place where Shikhi Buddha (Manusi Buddha) had mediated, the Buddhists of the Kathmandu Valley consider it as an important pilgrimage. The aged people say that when Swayambhu-Jyotirupa (self-existent light) in the middle of the Kathmandu Valley (then snake-infested lake Nagadaha,) Shikhi Buddha came to that spot for the Darshan (view) of Swayambhu Jyotirupa. After this Shikhi Buddha chose to settle in Pharping to meditate.

The spread of Buddhism also contributed to the development of this place. Due to the exotic natural beauties, historic temples, monasteries and simple folks etc somebody rightly compared Pharping with Kashmir, Spiti and northern Kumaon. The history of Pharping laying 16 kilometers south of Kathmandu adjacent to the Chandragiri mountain range is dated back to the Gopala dynasty, the first dynasty in the history of Nepal. The word Pharping is coined during the Kiranti period which bears testimony to the fact that Pharping had then become an important place. In the Buddhist text Swayambhu Purnana, it is said that Manjusri came from Mahachina and cut the ridge of the Kathmandu Valley, and then a lake called Nagadaha, at the corner of katuwaldaha with his sword and drained out the water of the lake. But the major pointer to the antiquity of Pharping is its link with the Gopala (Gwala or cowherd) dynasty. There is a temple of Gopalsewara (god of Gopalas) in Pharping. This is the only temple in Nepal with the name of Gopaleswara. Gopalas regard this deity as their Ishta Devata, patron deity. Gopaleswara is the Saivite temple. This also points out to the antiquity of Saivism in Nepal. Pharping was therefore an established place even in the time of the Gopala dynasty. Not much is known about the history of Pharping during the Kiranti dynasty except the naming of the rivers, streams and places of Pharping in the Kiranti language. It can be guessed that the development of settlements had taken place in Pharping during the Kiranti period. If we make a survey of the development of ancient settlements in the world as a whole, we find that the ancient civilizations had developed and flourished on the banks of rivers.

For example, the Indus Valley civilization and the Egyption civilization which were rooted in the Indus and the Nile rivers respectively. In a certain measure, Pharping was a strategic place linking the Kathmandu Valley with the road to India along the banks of the Bagmati river. It is said that Red Machhendranath was brought to the Kathmandu Valley from Kamaru kamachhya (Assam) through the katuwaldaha of Pharping at the time of Lichhavi King Narendra Deva in the 7 th century. It is believed that the deity called Sankata, the temple of which exists at Tebahal locality of Kathmandu, was brought there from Pharping. The ritual of taking bath at Katuwaldaha in Pharping and invoking Lord machhendranath and Sankata on the occasion of ascending the deity to the chariot and 12 year festival of Sankata respectively is still prevalent. The strategic location of Pharping has also contributed to the growth and development of Pharping economically and culturally. While tracing the history Pharping, we find that it was never a political stronghold. During the Lichhavi period, Pharping was directly controlled by the centre. During the period of Malla kings around the 11 th century, Pharping had the status of a district governed by a feudal ruler. During the time of Diddhinarsingh Malla (16 th century), Pharping was under Lalitpur. Something it was under Kathmandu. The unique feature of Pharping was its cultural aspect. It was virtually a seat of learning since the ancient times. According to Buddhist text Swayambhu Purana Manjusri, one of the eight principal Boddisattva disciples of the Buddha, and also the goddess of learning passed into oblivion in the shrine of Gopaleswara of Pharping. To the Buddhists of Nepal and Tibet and the Lamas all over the world Pharping was and is still a very important place hallowed by Padmasambhava (717-762), who meditated in a cave near Shikharnaryan temple.

It is said that at Yanglesho, the way leading to Pharping, Padmasambhava had to fight with gods, spirits and demons. When he was meditating, a number of venomous snakes appeared hanging down from above. Being disturbed Guru Padmasambhava struck the Naga on his head with a Vajrakila and turned the menacing serpent into stone. Even today several serpentine shapes overhanging the temple can be seen struggling to come down”. Another myth popularly remembered by the people of Pharping and the Buddhists is that while Padmasambhava was meditating in Pharping, some Tantric master created a storm to disturb his meditation. Then, he hid himself in a cave. Pharping was also a home of Buddhist saints and scholars. Vagisvarakirit, the resident of Pharping, was very popular in Tibet because he was a great Tantrik teacher and an expert in Guhyasamaja Tantra. He has a large following among the Tibetans. He was a disciple of Naropa of the Nalanda University. He studied under Naropa for nine years. It is said that he had two brothers who were also experts in the Tantric practice. The remnants of ancient cultural heritage in the form of inscriptions, stone and metal plates, chronicles about temples and monasteries, works of sculpture, stone art and architecture found here and there in Pharping lend it historical importance. Pharping is much more than this. It is also a place lavishly gifted by nature. It is an enchanting place full of natural beauty with panoramic lush green plains and hills. The temperate and climate and the bounties of nature make Pharping an ideal place for saints and yogis. This ancient city is not only a melting pot of Hinduism and Buddhism but is also a melting pot of Theravada, Mahayana, Vajirayana and Lamaism. Despite the existence of Hindu shrines like Gopaleswara, Shesh Narayan, and various other monuments of Saivite and Vaisnavite faiths, it is also studded with Buddhist monuments and sites for pilgrimage. This ancient city was inhabited by a large number of settlements. It is said that there existed about 48,000 dwellings during the time of Licchhavi King Bhumi Varma. In those days Pharping was called Shikharapur (city at high place). It is so called because it is situated at a higher altitude than the Kathmandu Valley. Due to political and administrative changes in different periods of history, Pharping has undergone several changes. It was a part of the Bagmati zone in the past and now it has been amalgamated into the Narayani zone. The presiding deity of Pharping is Shikhar Lokeswara, one of the principal Buddhist divinities of the Kathmandu Valley. In tune with the spirit to religious toleration in Nepal, Hindus call Shikhar Lokeswara as Shikhara Narayan. Another popular Buddhist deity of Pharping is Varayogini. People of Pharping call it Hyengu Vajrayogini considering it as the protector of Buddhism.

It is said that Pharping was densely populated at the time when the Kathmandu Valley was a lake where Nagas (serpents) dwelt. Then it was called Chikwatha. Some inscriptions of historic importance have been found in Pharping. One inscription dated 1660 A.D. mentions the existence of Kuti Bahal (monastery of Vajrayani Buddhists of the Kathmandu Valley), which is constructed by Baliram, of Thakkuri (Varman) caste and where the people of several localities of Pharping gather to celebrate s festival called Diwali. Diwali is an annual festival observed by the people of the Kathmandu valley, mostly by Newars, by visiting temples mostly vihars where their patron deities reside. While visiting the localities of Pharping one easily comes across the premises and courtyards very much resembling the bahas and bahis of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, This is unmistakably an evidence of the spread of Buddhism in Pharping since the ancient times and that its inhabitants were followers of Buddha Dharma Sangha.

The presence of monastic sites and monuments Lokeswara, Vajrayogini and Lamaism shows the prevalence of all major sects of Buddhism in Pharping. In the sixth century A.D. at the time of Sivadeva the First, according to a chronicle, various monasteries of Pharping were populated by the Buddhist monks. These monks not only gave religious discourse but also provided social service such as construction and maintenance of water taps and drinking water facilities. Water sources can be seen even at present at the Shikhar Lokeswara vihar (now the courtyard of Shesh Narayan in the process of Hinduisation). There are ponds with varieties of fish in the greenish cold flowing water. To beautify the area, fountains have been constructed by using the water resources. In the Licchavi period, the government sanctioned certain amount of money for the maintenance of vihars. The process of Hinduisation which started notably since the Licchavi period (from the 3 rd to 7 th century A.D.) picked up recently. The monastic complexes have been occupied by the Hindus. The remnants of monasteries are disappearing. Local residents are at a loss to know about the monasteries and their history. In the past, monasteries and other Buddhist monuments had tremendously suffered during the time of Jayasthiti Malla, (14 century A.D) the king of the Kathmandu Valley who was remembered for the introduction of Hindus caste system and values based on Manusmriti. A new awareness has developed among the residents of Pharping in realization of the need to reconstruct and renovate the dilapidating Buddhist monuments and to identify the monasteries. If one visits Pharping one can easily see the process of Hinduisation in Pharping. The cave where Padmasambhava meditated has been converted into the place of Gorakhanath. It is because of the cave and home of Vagisvarakirti and proximity to Dhyanocha that Tibetan monasteries are flourishing around the cave area. In order to revitalize Buddhism in Pharping a trust has been established to renovate the old monasteries of Pharping. 

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Bungamati, Khokana & Kirtipur

Bungamati
Bungamati is a classic Newari village dating from the 16th century. It sits atop a spur above the Bagmati river. In the centre of the lively village square is the large Rato Machhendranath Temple, a shikhara-style temple rather than a pagoda. Bungamati is a pleasant traditional Newari village that dates to the 16th century. It overlooks the Bagmati River. The streets are too thin for vehicle traffic. Not many visitors come here.
Rato Machhendranath TempleBungamati is the birthplace of Rato Machhendranath. He is regarded as the patron guardian of the valley. There is a shikhara-style temple in the middle of the village square. He spends six months a year in this temple and the other six months in the Rato Machhendranath Temple in Patan. The courtyard around the temple has a large prayer wheel and many chortens (Tibetan Buddhist stupas). When the deity of Rato Machhendranath moves to and from Patan and Bungamati is on of the biggest festivals of the year.

Karya Binayak TempleThis temple, located between Bungamati and Khakna, is dedicated to Ganesh. There are some great views from the temple of the Bagmati Valley and of Bungamati. From the road linking the hamlets, a path leads up to a beautiful clearing and the walled compound of the shrine. Here Ganesh is emerged as an elephant-shaped stone and is believed to help complete difficult tasks.

Khokana
Khokana is another Newari village, a short walk across the paddy fields from Bungamati Nepal is littered with little towns and villages which are seldom visited by tourists. Some may feel that a particular town or village has little or nothing to offer, but what some find boring – others find fascinating. Those that visit Nepal for the sheer experience of learning more about the lives and cultures of the local peoples will usually enjoy visiting even the simplest little farming village and getting to know the local inhabitants better. Khokana is a simple place, but it is filled with life, history and culture. If you have a real appreciation for such things, this little village is definitely worth a visit.
Khokana in Nepal is situated just north of Bungamati. It is a tiny Newari village with a reputation for two things – mustard oil and the local temple. The Newari who live here eek out a simple living off the land. Much of their daily activities take place outside of their dwellings and they really do seem to embrace nature. Thus, as you make your way down the main street of the village, you will see woman sitting outside spinning, men crushing seeds, and other daily activities. The village is famous for its unusual mustard oil harvesting process in which a heavy wooden beam is used to crush the mustard seeds in order to extract the oil. This oil can be eaten if desired but it can also be used for therapeutic massage. Even if you are not a fan of the mustard plant, you simply have to enjoy the local mustard oil in whatever way appeals to you the most.
In the center of town you will find that the main street is particularly wide – especially for a village of such diminutive size. The street was widened significantly during the rebuilding process after an earthquake shook the village in 1934. You will also find that no matter where you go in this tiny village, a large three-storied temple will catch your eye. This massive building certainly dominates the ‘skyline’ of the village and can be seen from virtually anywhere in the area. The temple is dedicated to the local mother goddess, Shikali Mai, and it is regularly used by the local people. A similar temple to the northeast of the village is mainly only used during times of epidemic. Clearly, Kokhana does have something to offer – even if it will only keep you busy for a few hours. So make an effort to stop here during your travels and enrich your stay in Nepal.

KirtipurThe Old Royal Palace in Kirtipur
The ancient town of Kirtipur is built on a hill overlooking the Kathmandu Valley. Kirtipur was once an independent kingdom, and because of its strategic hilltop location, it was the last kingdom conquered by King Prithvi Narayan Shah when he unified Nepal in the late 18th century. Perhaps as a result of Kirtipur's legendary stubbornness, the town has been relatively unaffected by the rapid development that has changed Kathmandu so dramatically in recent years. The town is most interesting simply as a place to catch a glimpse of traditional Nepali culture. The streets are full of activity, as are the farm fields below the town. Strolling through Kirtipur's narrow lanes, you will come across several small temples. Of particular interest is the three-story Bagh Bhairav Mandir, one of the oldest and best-preserved Newar pagodas in the valley.
Bagh Bhairav Mandir: Nailed to the facade of the temple are swords that were once used by the soldiers who fruitlessly defended Kirtipur against the troops of King Prithvi Narayan Shah.

Kathmandu, Patan & Bhaktapur

Kathmandu city
The political, commercial and cultural hub of Nepal is the first stop for the majority of visitors to the country. Once a separate kingdom in itself, it contains three fabled cities - Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur. Out of ten UNESCO World Heritage Sites, seven cultural heritage sites are in Kathmandu Valley. The history of the Valley begins with the Buddhist saint Manjushree who slashed a passage through the surrounding hills to drain out the primordial waters and make it inhabitable. Over the centuries, a refined urban civilization emerged, built on a unique synthesis of Hinduism and Buddhism.

Dynasties came and went. Trade and the arts flourished. Its deeply religious Newar inhabitants built fabulous cities and artistic temples that attracted devout pilgrims as well as rampaging invaders. In the late 18th century, following the founding of modern Nepal within more or less the present boundaries, Kathmandu was made the capital. Kathmandu, the largest city in Nepal is situated at an altitude of 1,350m.

KATHMANDU CITY (population 1,096,865 - 2001 census)
Durbar Square. This complex of palaces, courtyards and temples like Hanumandhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, used to be the seat of the ancient Malla Kings of Kathmandu. An intriguing piece here is the 17h -century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages. The Durbar Square, protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the social, religious and urban focal point of the city. Even to date, all the major state and social ceremonies, including the solemnization of coronations are performed in one of the courtyards in this complex. There are also museums inside the palace building.
There is an entrance fee of Rs. 250 for foreign visitors. Your ticket to the Square entitles you to visit all the museums.

Walkabout. A colorful and enlightening walk that gives you a feel of Kathmandu starts at Rani Pokhari, the large pond at Jamal beside the clock tower (Ghanta Ghar). The first stretch of the diagonal street leading southwest from here is called Kamalachhi. It is lined with bicycles and garment stores and brings you to the stone-paved market square of Ason, where the Annapurna temple presides over the motley of spice, grain and oil shops. Keep on walking and you come to Kel Tole after passing shops overflowing with brass utensils. Further on is the junction of Indrachowk with the temple of Akash Bhairav occupying one side. Your next stop after threading your way through the street lined with cloth shops is the stone-paved plaza of Makhan, where the Taleju temple towers over a row of handicraft shops. Walk on through Durbar Square to the intersection of Maru where you are surrounded by temples of all shapes and sizes.

Heritage Walk. A walk through selected historic sites seldom visited. This revitalizing walk starts at Teku, south of old Kathmandu, leading on to Wonder Narayan, a 17th century temple dedicated to Lord Bishnu. Strolling through Hyumat Tole, you will arrive at Kusah Bahi, a Buddhist courtyard built in 1754. The next stop is the Narayan Dewal, another Bishnu temple (built in 1865) with a small Ganesh temple at the entrance. Walk on to Tukan Baha, built in the 14th century as a replica of the Swayambhu stupa. Admire the Ram temple at the Ramchandra Dewal before reaching Jaisi Dewal, a huge Shiva temple built in 1688. Saunter down to Kohiti to study the Buddhist and Hindu sculptures in this sunken water fountain. Walk through Chikan Mugal and stop by at the Atko Narayan Dewal, an important Bishnu temple built in 1857, before visiting the namesake of the city, the Kasthamandap pavilion. After a further five-minute walk, reach the final destination, the Bhimsen Dewal, built in 1655 and dedicated to the main deity of local traders.

Swayambhu Stupa watches over the Valley from the top of a hillock on its western side just three kilometers west of the city center. The stupa is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal and its establishment is linked to the creation of the Kathmandu Valley out of a primordial lake. Swayambhu is also known as Samhengu and is listed as a World Heritage Site. It is also one of the oldest and glorious Buddhist shrines in the world which is said to be two thousand years. The four sides of the stupa is painted with the eyes of Lord Buddha and the temple is also known as the watchful eyes of Buddha. Entrance fee Rs. 100 to all foreigners except SAARC nationals Rs. 30.

Balaju consists of a sprawling garden of stone water spouts, fish ponds, and a replica of the statue of Budhanilkantha. Situated below Nagarjun hill about 3 km northwest of the city center, Balaju is known for its bank of 22 stone water spouts (hiti) carved in the shape of sea-dragons during the 18th century. Devotees take ritual baths under the gush of water in Balaju, also known as Lhuti. This is also an ideal place for picnic and relaxation. There are many beautiful folk songs focused on the Balaju Water Garden. Next to the garden is an Olympic sized swimming pool open to the public.

Budhanilkantha is situated below Shivapuri hill at the northern end of the Valley. It is about 9 km from the city center. The hub of the temple complex is a pond in which lies a 5 meter (17 feet) long great stone figure of Hindu god Bishnu reclining on the coils of a cosmic serpent. The figure has been estimated to have been found buried in the ground in its original state more than thousand years ago. It is also known as Bhuijasi. Hindus throng to this sacred pilgrimage almost everyday to perform puja but a great number of worshippers can be seen in various festivals, especially on Haribodhini Ekadashi that falls between October/November, the day believed that the sleeping Lord Bishnu wakes up.

Bouddhanath Stupa lies about 6 km east of downtown Kathmandu and is the largest stupa in the Valley and one of the largest in the world. It looms 36 meters high and presents one of the most fascinating specimens of stupa design with hundreds of prayer wheels and 108 small images of Buddha all around. Just like the Swayambhunath, the stupa here is too has four sides with the watchful eyes of Lord Buddha. All the Buddhist throng to this stupa to take part in the sacred rituals during the Buddhist festivals.

Bouddhanath, a World Heritage Site is also known as Khasti. There are more than 45 Buddhist monasteries in the area. Many have schools that teach young monks like those pictured here. An information counter, run by the Bouddha Area Preservation & Development Committee (Ph: 4471368) offers assistance to visitors.

Changu Narayan Temple is situated on a ridge overlooking the Valley, about 12 km to the east of the city. It is dedicated to the Hindu God Bishnu – the Preserver. One of the finest and oldest specimens of pagoda architecture, the temple is embellished with exquisite wood and stone carvings and is said to be the oldest pagoda style temple in Nepal built sometime back in 323 A.D. The sacred complex is a World Heritage Site and offers a panoramic view of the surrounding at 125 meters.

Pashupatinath Temple. One of the most sacred Hindu shrines in the world, Pashupatinath lies 5 km east from the city center. The richly-ornamented pagoda houses the sacred linga, or phallic symbol, of Lord Shiva as well as the noteworthy gold plated roofs and silver coated doors. This is the abode of God Shiva and is the holiest of all the Shiva shrines.
Religious pilgrims and sadhus, like the one pictured here, travel all the way from the remote areas of India to visit this sacred sight, especially during Shivaratri (the night of Shiva) that falls between February/March. Even though these devotees have denounced worldly possessions, each carries a Sadhu ID (identifications card) to freely cross over the border between India and Nepal.

Chronicles indicate Pashupatinath’s existence prior to 400 AD. Devotees can be seen taking ritual dips in the holy Bagmati river flowing beside the temple, also a World Heritage Site. The crematorium is just outside the temple and it is a dream of almost every Hindu to be cremated by the side of Pashupati Aryaghat after their death.

Kirtipur, (population 40, 378 - 2001 Census) a small town is situated on a ridge 6 km southwest of Kathmandu. The ancient township established in 1099 is a natural fortress and has a proud and courageous history. It was the first place to be attacked by Prithvi Narayan Shah in 1768. The Chilamchu stupa and the temple of Bagh Bhairav are major sights here. Kirtipur offers quaint streets lined with artistic houses and temple squares and great views of Kathmandu Valley. The people are known for their skill in building and weaving and other ancient loom. The oldest educational institute, Tribhuvan University is located in the bottom of the hill.




Dakshinkali and Chobhar. The temple of Dakshinkali is dedicated to one of the most important Hindu Goddess Kali and is one of the most popular places of worship in Kathmandu. Located 22 km from the city center on the southern rim of the Valley past Pharping village, the shrine is especially crowded on Tuesdays and Saturdays when animal sacrifices are offered to the deity. On the way back, stop at Chobhar, the famous gorge, just 8 km south west of Kathmandu. The narrow gash in the hills was made by Lord Manjushree to drain out the lake which once covered the Valley. A majestic view of snow clad mountain can be viewed from the hilltop close by.




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PATAN CITY (population 162,991 - 2001 estimate)

Durbar Square, like its counterpart in Kathmandu, is an enchanting mélange of palace buildings, artistic courtyards and graceful pagoda temples. Listed as a World Heritage Site, the former royal palace complex is the center of Patan’s religious and social life, and houses a museum containing an array of bronze statues and religious objects. There is an entrance fee of Rs. 200 per foreign visitor. One remarkable monument here is a 17th century temple dedicated to the Hindu God Krishna – Krishna Mandir built entirely of stone with rare stone carvings on its walls depicting the epic wars from Ramayana and Mahabharata.

Iba Bahi is situated about a two-minute walk south of Durbar Square. It is one of the oldest Buddhist monasteries in Kathmandu Valley and reflects the sophisticated architecture of the Malla period. A two-step platform leads to the courtyard with a hall called Dalan. There is a shrine dedicated to Shakyamuni right across the entrance.

Kwa Bahal, also known as the Golden Temple, is a Buddhist monastery courtyard dating to the 12th century. It is a five-minute walk west and north from the northern end of Durbar Square. The monastery building is embellished with exceptionally fine wood-carvings and repousse work. Artistic images are scattered around the courtyard, and devotees can be seen offering worship at the many shrines here. Entrance fee Rs. 25.

Mahabouddha can be reached by walking east from the southern end of Durbar Square and then turning right at the sunken water taps. This Buddhist monument is an excellent example of terra cotta art form which points to the skill of Patan’s ancient craftsmen with a variety of building styles. The 14th century monument’s obelisk-like design is also unusual in a city of pagoda roofs..
Oku Bahal is situated a few steps past Mahabouddha and is one of the best known Buddhist places of worship in Patan. The stone-paved courtyard is enclosed by a two-story building with gilded roofs. The wood-carvings on the roof struts are especially attractive. The place is peppered with sacred images and other small shrines.

Walkabout. Besides these much frequented tourist attractions, there are other ancient parts of Patan worth sight-seeing. Nakabahi, Nyakha Chuka, Nagbaha, Swotha Square, Tumbaha, Walkhu Tole, Chyasa, Kapinche, Chapat, Subaha, Bhinchhebaha, Dupat and Nugah make up a nice half-day walk around the squares, temples and monuments of inner Patan.
The Central Zoo in Jawalakhel is a pleasant diversion after a tour of the cultural sights. The only zoo in Nepal, wasfirst established in 1932 by a Rana Prime Minister as a private zoo and later opened to public in 1956. It houses about 106 species of birds and over 665 different animals and has 14 of the 38 endangered animals of Nepal. There is also a pond where you can go boating. The zoo is open daily except Mondays from 10 am to 5 pm. Entrance for foreign visitors costs Rs. 60 (Rs. 25 for children under 10). Elephant ride costs Rs. 100 (Tel: 5528324).

Tibetan Refugee Camp was set up in 1960 under the initiative of International Red Cross and the Swiss Development Corporation (SDC), known as Swiss Association for Technical Assistance (SATA) then, in cooperation with His Majesty’s Government of Nepal. Its main objective is to enable the Tibetan refugees to do something productive and support themselves. The carpet industry of Nepal is almost run by the Tibetan refugee families and the carpet factories have been a great source of employment for them to become self reliant economically. Apart from the carpet industry, Tibetan refugees are also engaged into handicrafts and there are many handicraft centers providing work opportunities to the families of the refugees with its profits going for the education, sanitation, healthcare of the Tibetans in the Refugee Camps including the physically handicapped and senior Tibetans.

Bungamati is a classic Newari village dating from the 16th century. It sits atop a spur above the Bagmati river. In the centre of the lively village square is the large Rato Machhendranath Temple, a shikhara-style temple rather than a pagoda. Bungamati is a pleasant traditional Newari village that dates to the 16th century. It overlooks the Bagmati River. The streets are too thin for vehicle traffic. Not many visitors come here.


Khokana is another Newari village, a short walk across the paddy fields from Bungamati Nepal is littered with little towns and villages which are seldom visited by tourists. Some may feel that a particular town or village has little or nothing to offer, but what some find boring – others find fascinating. Those that visit Nepal for the sheer experience of learning more about the lives and cultures of the local peoples will usually enjoy visiting even the simplest little farming village and getting to know the local inhabitants better.
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BHAKTAPUR & CHANGU NARAYAN



BHAKTAPUR (population 74,200 – 2002 estimation)
Durbar Square. As you walk in, you cannot but be overcome by a feeling of inner harmony. Such is the art and architecture and the special layout here. The Palace of 55 Windows built during the period of King Bhupatindra Malla in 1754 situated to the left as you enter through the city gate, inspires admiration. The National Art Gallery is also housed inside. The palace entrance, the Golden Gate known as Sunko Dhoka in Nepali is a masterpiece in repousse art. In front of the palace building is a medley of temples of various designs. Amongst the three Durbar Squares in the Valley, the Durbar Square in Bhaktapur is the best preserved one. There is an entrance fee of Rs. 30 for SAARC nationals and Rs. 500 for other foreign visitors.
Taumadhi Square lies to the east of Durbar Square reached by a narrow brick-paved lane. The towering five-roofed Nyatapol temple presides over the square. The monument gracefully soars into the sky atop a five-story plinth. The stairway leading up to the temple is flanked by stone figures of deities and mythical beasts, each 10 times more powerful than the one immediately below.


Dattatreya Square takes its name from the Dattatreya temple dedicated to a three-headed combination of the Hindu deities Brahma, Bishnu and Shiva. If you want to experience the feel of the traditional urban layout of Bhaktapur, Dattatreya Square is it. Set in a maze of streets lined with richly ornamented houses, the square is famed for its many ornate Hindu monasteries known as Math. The National Woodworking Museum is also housed here and the Brass and Bronze Museum is across the street. The oldest structure in Bhaktapur was raised during the reign of the last Malla King, Yaksha Malla who ruled the Valley before it was divided into three Kingdoms amongst his three heirs.


Potter’s Square. A two-minute walk south of Durbar Square brings you to Bolachhen, also known as Potter’s Square because of the many potters seen here moulding wet clay into different kinds of earthen ware. It has a display of fresh pottery left out to dry in the open square. This place can be approached from Taumadhi Square. The elephant-headed Lord Ganesh is the patron of potters, thus the Jeth Ganesh temple in the square.
Siddha Pukhu, a pond dating back to the Lichhavi period, is better known as Ta-Pukhu, meaning big pond. Though situated right at the bus stop, it provides a serene atmosphere with its sashaying fish and the stone images of different Hindu and Buddhist Gods.

Surya Binayak is one of Kathmandu’s most popular pilgrimage spots, 12 kilometers east of the center. It has been positioned in such a way to catch the first rays of the sun in the morning. Situated in a thick forest to the south of Bhaktapur, it is a 20-minute walk from the trolley bus terminal. The temple, dedicated to the Hindu deity Ganesh (the Elephant headed God) is crowded with devotees especially on Tuesdays and Saturdays. It is also one of the favorite picnic spots offering elegant views of Bhaktapur and other attractive landscapes.

Thimi (population 48,000) is a farming town situated 8 km east of Kathmandu on the way to Bhaktapur. Exquisite temples and other religious shrines dot its streets. It is known for its artistic masks and earthen pots, often seen spread out on the streets to dry in the sun. It can be called a traditional pottery locality with almost 80% of the population still involved in pottery. Handspun cotton cloth is another Thimi specialty.
Changunarayan Temple

The temple of Changunarayan situated in Changu Village in Bhaktapur at about five kilometres north of Bhaktapur on a hill top. It is one of the finest and oldest specimens of pagoda architecture and is dedicated to the Hindu god, Vishnu. The temple is embellished by stone, wood, and metal crafts. The temple has great historical, archeological, and religious importance. It was constructed in 306 AD by King Mandev. A fifth century stone inscription in the temple proclaims it to be one of the oldest shrines in the Kathmandu Valley.

Map of Kathmandu Valley:

About Kundalini .....

About Kundalini ……

Kundalini is a Sanskrit word meaning either "coiled up" or "coiling like a snake." There are a number of other translations of the term usually emphasizing a more serpentine nature to the word— e.g. 'serpent power'. In the case of two coiled snakes they usually cross each other seven times, a possible reference to the seven Chakras.
This appearance is also referred to as "pranic awakening". Prana is interpreted as the vital, life-sustaining force in the body. Uplifted or intensified life-energy is called pranotthana and is supposed to originate from an apparent reservoir of subtle bio-energy at the base of the spine.

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Kundalini energy always travel upwards from the down Mooladhar chakra to top Sahasrar chakra possible only through serious meditation under the direct monitoring of a well learned teacher which provide ecstasy or Paramanand to the subject.

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