Friday, October 30, 2009

Bungamati, Khokana & Kirtipur




Bungamati
Bungamati is a classic Newari village dating from the 16th century. It sits atop a spur above the Bagmati river. In the centre of the lively village square is the large Rato Machhendranath Temple, a shikhara-style temple rather than a pagoda. Bungamati is a pleasant traditional Newari village that dates to the 16th century. It overlooks the Bagmati River. The streets are too thin for vehicle traffic. Not many visitors come here.
Rato Machhendranath TempleBungamati is the birthplace of Rato Machhendranath. He is regarded as the patron guardian of the valley. There is a shikhara-style temple in the middle of the village square. He spends six months a year in this temple and the other six months in the Rato Machhendranath Temple in Patan. The courtyard around the temple has a large prayer wheel and many chortens (Tibetan Buddhist stupas). When the deity of Rato Machhendranath moves to and from Patan and Bungamati is on of the biggest festivals of the year.

Karya Binayak TempleThis temple, located between Bungamati and Khakna, is dedicated to Ganesh. There are some great views from the temple of the Bagmati Valley and of Bungamati. From the road linking the hamlets, a path leads up to a beautiful clearing and the walled compound of the shrine. Here Ganesh is emerged as an elephant-shaped stone and is believed to help complete difficult tasks.

Khokana
Khokana is another Newari village, a short walk across the paddy fields from Bungamati Nepal is littered with little towns and villages which are seldom visited by tourists. Some may feel that a particular town or village has little or nothing to offer, but what some find boring – others find fascinating. Those that visit Nepal for the sheer experience of learning more about the lives and cultures of the local peoples will usually enjoy visiting even the simplest little farming village and getting to know the local inhabitants better. Khokana is a simple place, but it is filled with life, history and culture. If you have a real appreciation for such things, this little village is definitely worth a visit.
Khokana in Nepal is situated just north of Bungamati. It is a tiny Newari village with a reputation for two things – mustard oil and the local temple. The Newari who live here eek out a simple living off the land. Much of their daily activities take place outside of their dwellings and they really do seem to embrace nature. Thus, as you make your way down the main street of the village, you will see woman sitting outside spinning, men crushing seeds, and other daily activities. The village is famous for its unusual mustard oil harvesting process in which a heavy wooden beam is used to crush the mustard seeds in order to extract the oil. This oil can be eaten if desired but it can also be used for therapeutic massage. Even if you are not a fan of the mustard plant, you simply have to enjoy the local mustard oil in whatever way appeals to you the most.
In the center of town you will find that the main street is particularly wide – especially for a village of such diminutive size. The street was widened significantly during the rebuilding process after an earthquake shook the village in 1934. You will also find that no matter where you go in this tiny village, a large three-storied temple will catch your eye. This massive building certainly dominates the ‘skyline’ of the village and can be seen from virtually anywhere in the area. The temple is dedicated to the local mother goddess, Shikali Mai, and it is regularly used by the local people. A similar temple to the northeast of the village is mainly only used during times of epidemic. Clearly, Kokhana does have something to offer – even if it will only keep you busy for a few hours. So make an effort to stop here during your travels and enrich your stay in Nepal.
KirtipurThe Old Royal Palace in Kirtipur
The ancient town of Kirtipur is built on a hill overlooking the Kathmandu Valley. Kirtipur was once an independent kingdom, and because of its strategic hilltop location, it was the last kingdom conquered by King Prithvi Narayan Shah when he unified Nepal in the late 18th century. Perhaps as a result of Kirtipur's legendary stubbornness, the town has been relatively unaffected by the rapid development that has changed Kathmandu so dramatically in recent years. The town is most interesting simply as a place to catch a glimpse of traditional Nepali culture. The streets are full of activity, as are the farm fields below the town. Strolling through Kirtipur's narrow lanes, you will come across several small temples. Of particular interest is the three-story Bagh Bhairav Mandir, one of the oldest and best-preserved Newar pagodas in the valley.
Bagh Bhairav Mandir: Nailed to the facade of the temple are swords that were once used by the soldiers who fruitlessly defended Kirtipur against the troops of King Prithvi Narayan Shah.

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